The framing stage of any project is the most exciting because that's when the conceptual design comes to life! This is also the "oh crap" stage where you get to feel how big or how very small each room will be :)
Once we started standing up the exterior walls, my husband and I got our first dose of the "tiny" in our tiny house. The good thing to keep in mind is that the feeling of the room sizes will continue to fluctuate as you progress in your build. Once it's complete, it usually feels larger than expected! (Very true, this is exactly how we felt)
WHAT IS YOUR FRAMING PREFERENCE?
We framed our house with 2x4 studs because this method, my husband is most familiar with. Metal framing is an alternative option to consider which reduces the over all weight of the house. The weight of our house was a factor we considered often because we didn't want to exceed the axle capacity and or the towing capabilities of our truck(check out the Tiny House trailer for more details). If we were traveling cross country we would have considered metal framing more thoroughly.
Before I start laying out the details of our framing process, there are a few things you should know.
1) If you haven't already, Check out the post "Creating An Airy Tiny House Floor Plan" to see what we are framing.
2) You need to know the rough openings of your windows and doors before you start framing your home ( these details should be on your floor plan).
3) The majority of our house is held together by screws not nails. We opted for screws to allow movement without compromising strength.(This factor added extra time to our framing, but it was necessary)
THE MATERIAL LIST
We started with a base material list and bought additional materials as we needed.
13ea. ¾ x 4 x 8 T&G sub floor
40ea. 2 x 4 x 20 Plates
100ea. 2 x 4 x 12 Stubs
8ea. 4 x 6 x 10 Open beam select
2ea. 4 x 6 x 18 Header
1ea. 4 x 6 x 8 Header
7ea. 4 x 4 x 8 Floor joist
10ea. 5/8 x 4 x 8 Techshield
20ea. 1/2 x 4 x 8 Shear wall cdx plywood
1 Roll house wrap
2ea. Large sub-floor adhesive
2 boxes 1 x 5/8 Senco quickdrive screws
The lowest lumber quote that came in for the above materials was this ----> $3,123.35
ASSEMBLING YOUR WALLS
If you know your way around a 2x4, check out the post "Framing Tips" to sharpen your skill set. If you're new to all of this, continue reading to get the basics to framing a wall.
Framing is all about plates, studs,channels, trimmers, cripplers, headers and rough sills. Depending on the width of the window opening and the load being carried above will dictate the 2 by's you will use. Most likely and what we used was 2x4 for every item mentioned above except the header. All of our headers are 4x4.
You'll want to start assembling your exterior walls first. The plates will be running horizontally on the tops and bottoms of your walls. You will have a total of three plates per wall. One on the bottom and two at the top(to lock the walls together.)
Studs run vertically between your plates, 16" on center (every four feet you'll have a join.) Checking and rechecking at this stage pays off! Those joins will be what you secure your plywood and drywall to in the coming stages.
Channels join walls together and give backing to the exterior and interior wall coverings. Your channels will be found at all your wall intersections and corners.
Hey! This is a whole lot of information if your new to all this. Hang in there, it will click after a few reads.
WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMING COMPONENTS
Trimmers hold up the header and frame in the opening of the window.
Cripplers hold up the rough sill and frame in the opening for the window
Headers hold weight above the window
rough sills similar to the window sill
Total cost :